Day 33 - O Pedrouzo to Santiago

Well, back on the Camino for the last time. We set out in the rain as we did on the first day 33 days & 780km ago. I still can't believe we are almost there.

We are now just 5km from Santiago and not sure what to expect.

There are new faces everywhere, we haven't seen anyone we recognise.

Our first glimps of Santiago, we are both very quiet today.

I am reflecting on our long journey. All the people we have met, and all the fabulous places we have passed through.

We are now in the busy outskirts of Santiago.

Our first sighting of the Cathedral, now we know we have arrived. The last 5km have been very hard. Walking through any town is always harder, but this one just never seemed to get any closer.

The architecture all around us now is stunning as we get closer to the Cathedral. This was a pilgrim hospital at one time.

We turn the corner and there it is, it is enormous and magnificent. The Cathedral of Santiago.

We made it, both of us, all the way to Santiago from St Jean on foot, all 800km in 33 days. I can't tell tell you how it feels, but I know I have friend for life.

This is Jans, a Dutch girl that we walked with for a while on our very first day up and over the Pyrenees, but we never saw again until about 3 km outside of Santiago and then literally bumped into her in the square, quite ironic. Good luck in the future Jans.

So now we need to get our Compostela and join the queue at the Pilgrim office.

Then lunch of course, no nuts and raisins today. A large plate of scallops washed down with white wine. Marvellous.

My certificate, it's only a simple piece of paper, but it represents a lot of wonderful memories.
It has been an incredible journey both physically and mentally. I could only have done this with one person, Tony, thank you very much.

I would also like to say thank you to Jane and the girls for making it possible for me to do this, also everyone at UK Gas Technologies for making it easy for me to take the time away and keeping the ship on course.

I will sign off now cos I'm gonna go lay on a beach and not walk anywhere for 4 days.

Buena Vida.

Day 32 - Arzúa to O Pedrouzo

We had a very nice pilgrim meal last night, and unusually had a plate of roasted vegetables which was a welcome change. In bed by 9.15  - I was absolutely knackered.

We left Arzua in the morning with dark skies hanging over us, but again we manage to escape the rain.

We stop off in Calzada for a pit stop. It is busy again this morning and still we see a few of our old friends.

Back into the woods at Salcede, the Camino today is much the same but we are counting down the Km to Santiago.

The eucalyptus trees are very impressive and seem to go on for ever. The Camino has become very quiet now, we wondered if we have taken a wrong turn, where have all the pilgrims gone?

We pass through the small town of Sante Irene and on into O Pedrouzo.

Now only 20km to Santiago.

I can feel a hangover coming on already.

We are staying tonight at the Hostel Platas, a modern hotel in the back end of the modern town.

It has a Pulperia next door (specialises in Octopus) which we may have a tentacle or two in tonight.

The area is also famous for its cheese, Quiexo, a smooth creamy cheese made from cows milk formed into rounds weighing approx 1kg. Normally eaten with a quince jelly.

Aussie John hanging out the window, we just can't get away from these two.

So tomorrow is our last push, 780km done and just 20km to Santiago - not sure how I will feel after this once-in-a-lifetime journey with an exceptionally good friend. I will tell you tomorrow.

Day 31 - Palas de Rei to Arzúa

We had a nice relaxing evening and dined with our Australian friends (John & Eileen), who again just happen to stay in the same place. The pilgrim menus was great and plenty of wine was included in our €10.

We set out for Arzua, its overcast but good walking weather. We pass through San Xulian, a classic Camino town with its 12th Century church dedicated to St Julian.










We don't stop as we have a long walk today and want to press on.














We arrive in Casa de Somoza and catch up with our Irish mate (it turns out that the extra room we managed to get in Palas de Rei was theirs and they were sent in a taxi 5km outside town, hay ho). We also met up with Andy and Paul again.

We stopped for a coffee and a snack then pushed on.

We passed over the bridge at Ponte Velha, a fine medieval bridge into Furelos. From here we begin a climb up to Melide through its rather haphazard modern suburbs.

The rivers are quite high now due to the recent rain falls that we always seem to just miss.

We stop to let Tony do running repairs to his feet.

The church is “Igrexa Santa Maria de Melide" 12th Century. There used to be a leprosy hospital here but has long disappeared. Shame, they probably could have sorted out Tony's rotten feet.

Back into the woods on a natural path; the woods are now mainly Oak and Eucalyptus trees which are grown for timber harvest. In fact, it represents 6.5% of the GDP for Galicia.

We make our way to Ribadiso which we will pass through.

Ribadiso is accessed via the medieval bridge over the Rio Iso. The building over the bridge is a wonderful reconstruction of one of the oldest pilgrim hospitals still in existence.

We arrive at our hostel for tonight, a modern well equipped one with restaurant and bar.

Our walk today was 32km and quite tough, 7 hours pretty much non-stop. We are both very tired and hungry as our snack lunch was just nuts, raisins and a banana.

I made a mistake with our mileage to Santiago, it's now only 38km.
Only 18km to our next stop at O Pedrouzo then 20km to Santiago on Thursday.

I can't believe we are nearly there.

Oh, and the strange little buildings at each farm are for storing Maze (Corn on the Cob).

Day 30 - Portomarin to Palas de Rei

Our evening in Portomarin was great, it was very busy in the town, lots of pilgrims now gather as the new starters stop over for their first night. We found a nice bar/restaurant who's menu was more than the basic pilgrim meal (no hake tonight then).We had a variety of Tapas and sat and watched the Canadian Grand Prix.

We also met up with quite a few of the pilgrims we started out with in St Jean now 4 weeks ago, its nice to hear some of their trials and tribulations.

The Camino onwards is back in the forest and although it's chilly and overcast, is a pleasant walk around the edge of the reservoir and up and over Ventas de Naron Sierra Ligonde.

We pass through many small villages, Gonza, Hospital de la Cruz, Ventas de Naron, Ligonde, & Eirexe.

Each farm in this region has a strange looking small building in its grounds. It can be seen in this photo to the right of the house. We have not been able to establish its use or purpose, seem to be built for the storage or drying of something because they have ventilated sides. Any guesses ?

The villages are all very similar and are predominantly dairy farms. However, the greater majority of the buildings are derelict.












The scenery has not charged much over the last few days, rolling hills and hay meadows.

Considering the volume of pilgrims that pass through these villages, it is very un commercialised.

We are staying tonight in a hostel on the outskirts of Palas de Rei, which is a wood cabin complex.

When we arrived, again, we are told our reserved rooms are let and they only have a twin room (I shudder at the thought of the wild boar snoring his head off). We protest profusely, but to no avail; we have to share, no alternative. Ear plugs to the ready then and a high % bottle of wine to knock me out. Then surprise surprise, they find another room. I can't tell you how relieved I am.

Because we are on the outskirts of the town we won't see the centre till tomorrow as we make our way to Arzua which will be 29km. It will only be 60km to Santiago.

The last 200km has gone really quickly and are both looking forward to buzz and celebrations of arriving in Santiago.

Day 29 - Sarria to Portomarin

Thank you Antonio, the hotel was great and the restaurant below was fab, and I only got woken twice by the wild boar snoring in the bed next to me.

As predicted, there were a whole load of freshers starting the Camino today. They all had brand new clean gear and were sprinting on, not a care for their feet or legs that have probably never been conditioned for this. We all learn the hard way.

The atmosphere was different again, previously everyone when passing wishes each other Buoen Camino, I have said it a thousand times. Now the old timers seemed to stick together and the new guys march on and with no acknowledgement to anyone else. But that's OK.

The Camino takes us back into the woods through the ancient oaks and chestnuts. The hedgerows are bursting with wild flowers and ferns that enjoy the humid atmosphere that prevails in the woods. Foxgloves and Broom, bright yellow, are everywhere.

We have never seen so many pilgrims, of all shapes, sizes and ages.

We meet up with our Irish mates that we constantly bump into in the towns along the way.

A real mile stone (excuse the pun), now 690km behind us and only 100km to Santiago, we all shake hands and congratulate each other.

We pass through many small villages, Barbadelo, Morgade, Ferrerios, Mercadoiro & Vilcha.

The mass of early morning pilgrims has now spread out and we are back to the peace and quiet we have grown accustomed to.

Portomarin is now in the distance and a steep drop into the town.

Among the treasures of Portomarin is the church and fortress of San Juan and San Nicolas, built by the Knights of St John of Jerusalem in the 12th century. The temple was moved one stone at a time before they flooded the former town for the construction of the reservoir.

In the seasons when the water level is low, the remains of the some of the ancient buildings, the water front and the old bridge are still visible.

The original bridge was of Roman origin and joined the southern district of San Nicolas (headquarters of the Knights of St John ).

The river formed a major strategic boundary and consequently the area had a turbulent past.

The steep staircase in front is part of the original medieval bridge across the Rio Mino (now replaced with a longer modern bridge). These lead up to the arch and “Capella de Santa Maria de las Nieves” which, along with many other historical monuments, were removed and repositioned on the high ground around Portomarin when the dam was built to create the Belesar reservoir in 1962.

Our hostel tonight is Hostel Portomino, at the back of the town with a bar and small restaurant.

The steep descent into the town today was assisted by our walking poles. I would never have tumbled the first couple of days if I had started out with them. They are a VERY useful tool and I would never go on a long walk with out them again.

Tomorrow we are bound for Palas de Rei 25km, starting out by skirting the reservoir.

Day 28 - Tricastela to Sarria

The atmosphere in Tricastela last night was completely different. It is a small condensed town and all the bars and restaurants concentrated in a small narrow street. The pilgrims we have met over the last 670km are all now buzzing with the anticipation of Santiago. Every one is chatting and mixing with each other in the knowledge that our next destination is Sarria, a large modern town which will be the starting point for many hundreds more pilgrims. This is 112km from Santiago and the last point to start from to enable you to receive your Compostela (certificate of authenticity ), as the rules say you must walk at least the last 100km to gain this. We all know we will get there now but it's going to get crowded on the Camino. We all need to be mindful that new arrivals may be nervous and apprehensive and the last thing a person needs is aloofness built on a false sense of superiority. I am looking forward to meeting the new pilgrims.

The Camino out to Opcion is very pleasant. We have started this morning in the rain and mist, but the Oak and Chestnut woods create a tranquil path. There is wild mint, sage and many varieties of wild orchids growing in the hedge rows, the quiet is only broken by the numerous constant bird songs.
Our gear again is to prove invaluable, excellent waterproofs including a ruck sack cover that protects all our worldly goods from the rain.

The agriculture has changed considerably. It is now made up of small dairy farms who's herds are generally only 20 strong. They are Angus Jersey cross breeds and carry a bell around there necks. This years calfs are nurtured by their proud mothers. It's difficult to see how they make a living in this remote and isolated mountainous region.

We arrive in the busy modern town of Sarria. It is strange to be confronted by so many cars and people after such a long time away from normal every day life in the city.

We arrive at our hostel for tonight only to find that, by mistake, our reserved rooms have been let. Antonio the proprietor was extremely apologetic and took us in his car to possibly the best hotel in town and secured us a room with two separate internal rooms. It is also said to have the best restaurant in town (that's not an Afro hair do, but a tree growing behind his head). He even offered to pay the difference in the original price we would have paid. What a nice guy.

Sarria with its Celtic origins, was a major medieval centre for pilgrims with several churches, monasteries and 7 pilgrim hospitals. The addition of the railway in the 19th Century pulled the town centre eastwards leaving the ancient Camino largely intact. It is now a bustling town of 13,000 inhabitants.

Tomorrow we are off to Portomarin, a walk of 23km and an ascent of only 700ft, but a steep decline of 1000ft for the last 5km, very tough on the knees.