Day 22 - Vilar de Mazarife to Astorga

We leave Vilar de Mazarife for Astorga. We had our simple pilgrims meal in Pep's bar and grabbed an early night. Our Albergue was nice, clean and simple and run by a sweet old lady; Tony had her clothes hanging in his wardrobe (I hope he didn't swipe her heavy duty knickers). There was a festival in town in the evening which we were tempted to go to, but had a 32km stint, so a wise move not to.

We walk through Villavante and pass by a beautifully renovated water mill.

We drop down into Puente de Orbigo and to our complete surprise there was a medieval festival going on. We were first passed by a marching band with pipes and drums.

As we got further in to the town & over the bridge, we saw it was a jousting event.

The full regalia, horses, archery. Everyone in medieval costume.

It was a complete coincidence that we arrived when we did.

We crossed the bridge in to the main street.

It is one of the best preserved medieval bridges in Spain dating back to the 13th Century which forms one of the great historical landmarks of the Camino. It's a great myriad of arches which carry you across the Rio Orbigo via the passage O'Grady honour, so called because of the famous jousting tournament that took place here in the Holly year 1434.

A Noble knight from Leon, Don Suero de Quinones scorned by a beautiful lady, threw down the gauntlet to any knight who dared to pass as he undertook to defend the bridge (and presumably his honour) against all comers. Knights from all over Europe took up the challenge. Don Suero successfully defended the bridge for a month until 300 lances had been broken. Together with his trusted comrades he then proceeded to Santiago to offer thanks for his freedom from the bonds of love and for his honour, now restored. It also witnessed the battle in 452 when the Visigoths slaughtered the Swabians and subsequently provided the scene of confrontation between Christian forces under Alfonso and the Moors.

And found a complete re-enactment of a medieval market town.

With jugglers and jugglers...

Even a donkey train for the children who were also dressed in costume. It was quite unexpected and spectacular.

We had lunch at a market stall of a seafood platter and fried sliced potatoes then left the festival behind and re-joined the Camino, we still had a long way to go. Tomorrow we start our climb into the mountains you can see in the distance.

We stop in the shade for a drink, it was now getting hot and dusty.

Yet another surprise, in the middle of this dry and dusty high delta, a free pilgrim snack bar, drinks, fruit, cakes, tea & iced water. All free or give a donation.

Then we start our hot descent into Astorga.














We arrive at out hotel, the best in town. Astorga became an important Roman city on account of its prominent position at the junction of several major routes. This is where the French Camino joins the Silver route Via de La Plata from Sevilla and the south. This convergence gave rise to 29 pilgrim hospitals in medieval times.

It is also sometimes referred to as the capital of the Maragateria but the Maragatos themselves defy classification. Some suggest they are descended from the Berber tribes who came to Spain as part of the Moorish invasion in the 8th Century becoming misplaced in this remote mountainous region.

As Astorga is a Roman Spa town, “so when in Rome have a Spa”, that's exactly what we did. It was so so so re-invigorating. We were hot, dirty and exhausted after 32km and indulged in a steam room, hot & cold showers, jacuzzi then laid on warm tiled slabs wrapped in thick white gowns. I can't tell you how good it was!