Day 20 - Mansilla de las Mulas to Leon

We leave for Leon, our hostel last night was clean, tidy and modern but run by a really miserable old bag. It's amazing how the facilities and the attitude of the hostels differ. Some can't do enough to help, others, you feel as though you shouldn't be here. Maybe it's us two, more than likely.

We are now leaving behind a lot of the slow coaches (not that it's a race) and injured, and repeatedly meeting up with people we have previously met, walked with or dined with. Like Sheila, an American lady, she is walking with her two sons and meeting her third son and husband in Leon.. We met up in a bar with another pilgrim, Fia from Dublin, and had a great pilgrims meal all together.

Bon Camino guys.

We cross the river Rio Porma at Villarente. The first building we pass is a medieval pilgrim hospital which operated a donkey ambulance service for sick pilgrims to Leon.

The legs and feet are good today after a relatively moderate walk yesterday and an early night, and the weather is glorious.

A view back down the river. The remainder of our journey is along the road into Leon and not very exciting at all.

Oh my God, are we really staying here, Yep. It's the San Marcos Monastery in the deter of Leon, whose construction began in the 16th century, replaced another12th century monastery from the times of King Alfonso VI.

The past emerges in the cloister and Chapter house embracing the present with the excellent renovation of large rooms. In days gone by these sheltered the pilgrims.

The entrance lobby is breath taking with its original stone stairway and balustrade. The air is cool and fresh and the ambiance relaxing and peaceful after the walk along the busy dangerous road into the city.

The cloisters in the inner quadrangle are also original. It provokes thoughts of how a monastic life must of been like in the 16th century or what the exhausted pilgrims would have been welcomed by after 500km on the dusty hot Camino.

Another view of the cloister and the tranquil garden within.



















The city Leon derives it name from “ Legion”, at one time a Roman military garrison and base for its VIIth Legion, hence the name.

Later it became the capital of the old Kingdom of Asturias and Leon.

It was conquered and re-conquered by Visigoth, Morrs and finally by Christian forces.

Here there are many periods and styles from the Roman remains which support the medieval walls to the exquisite Romanesque Royal Basilica.

Ancient and modern now straddle the banks of the Rio Barnesaga and, within the hectic nature of a modern city, it is a meeting that seems somehow effortless and natural.



It is also the junction of the Camino from Madrid 320km away, thus making it a busy pilgrim meeting place in its own right.

This only leaves the Cathederal. Santa Maria de Leon Cathedral, also called “ The house of light ” or Pulchra Leonina.

It was built on the site of previous Roman baths of the 2nd century which, 800 years later, King Ordono II converted into a palace.




The Legio VII Gemina had built the baths, with a size larger than the current building. During the restoration in the 19th century it's remains were discovered, and in 1997 others were explored near the south facade.

During the Christian reconquest the ancient baths were converted into the royal palace. King OrdonoII II , who had occupied the throne of Leon in 916, defeated the Arabs in the battle of San Esteban de Gomaz in 917 and as a sign of gratitude to God he gave up the palace to build the first Cathedral. Under the episcopate of Fruminio II, the building was transformed into a sacred place. The tomb of OrdonoII II is found in the Cathedral.

The original wood carving in the Chorale is stunning.

We leave early tomorrow for a 23km flat walk to Villar de Mzarife which is another true pilgrim village to stay in the only hostel in the village.

Day 19 - El Burgo Ranero to Mansilla de las Mulas

A bit shabby, that was a complete under estimation - It was a dump. My room was formed in the roof eaves, it felt like a pigeon loft. The bathroom was dirty and the tub was smaller than a tin bath. To top it all, the pilgrims meal in the so called “Restaurant” was awful. Mind you, for €9 for 3 courses you expect that much.

However we both had a very good nights sleep and refreshed set off via the village shop to pick up some lunch as there will be nothing en-route.

We pass by a Bodega similar to the one Patrick had in Moratinos, some of these extended back into the hill about 20m.

Another Bodega entrance.

We find a picnic area and stop and have our lunch. It has been an easy journey today along the flat.

We arrive at our hostel in Mansilla de las Mulas early. We walked the 25km in just 4½ hours including our lunch stop. Plenty of time to wash our clothes, shower and change.

It is essential that you have a clean top, socks and pants every day. Generally there is somewhere to hang them to dry or just put on a radiator.

The town is entered by the North-east door of the Great Wall that in parts still stands, through which the pilgrims coming along the “Roman Way” or “Trajan Way” would have entered the town. The Gothic arch and vault are made of stone blocks and you can see these in the crenelated parapet.

The name of this interesting old town is derived from Mano en Silla (hand on the saddle). This may well refer to the towns earlier prominence as a live stock town.

Whatever about its agricultural roots, the medieval wall (2th century) still protects the town from the encroachment of the modern world.

The church in the centre of the town was first constructed in the twelfth century had has been added to and restored over recent years.

The main square still has some early buildings, where we shall eat tonight.

Tomorrow we will leave by crossing the Rio Esla via the old bridge to head for Leon. This is a large Cathedral city with a population of 130,000.

Day 18 - Moratinos to El Burgo Ranero

We leave our nice new hostel after a very enjoyable evening. The nice German lady told us that we could eat at the hostel or try the Spanish restaurant around the corner. We plumbed for the Spanish.Went over initially for a drink and to check it out. Whilst we were relaxing an American lady call Erika arrived that we first met on day 2 and several other times en-route. She was with 2 other guys, who we were introduced to. She had arrived in the village not having booked any accommodation and everywhere was full. When she asked one of these guys if they knew of any lodgings, he offered her his own house.

Turns out that there are 20 inhabitants to the village plus Patrick who took Erika in. He was a fantastic guy, English, and from the newspaper business. In fact, he was one of the guys involved in initially setting up Hello magazine. He has been living in Moratinos for 9 years and was telling us about the village and the underground Bodega which he took us to. They think they were originally excavated over 1000 years ago and are used to press the grapes and store the wine. No pictures, sorry, didn't take iPad with me.

We then went back to the restaurant and got stuck into a huge plate of mixed seafood, including 4 large octopus tentacles and 2 massive squid. Had just the tiniest too much wine and suffered for it on the Camino today. It was a fab evening.

Erika's foot was hurting and I hope she is OK, after a days rest, to continue tomorrow. Bon Camino Erika.

We passed through San Nicolas del Real Camino, another quiet little village which was linked with the Templar order. The Church is built of the familiar clay bricks of the area

We crossed over the Rio Valderaduey. On the 25th April a local pilgrimage takes place here. The small hermitage across the bridge is “Our lady of the bridge” a 12th century sanctuary.

That's Tony having a hangover rest.

We arrived in Sahagun a couple of weeks too early. The steel fencing you can see is erected for the running of the bulls which is on the 15th June.

They're probably running away from Tony - you know what he was after!

We pass through Bercianos del real Camino where again the houses are constructed from the local clay which is made into blocks and dried in the sun.

The road to our destination of El Burgo Ranero is long and flat and very testing on the body after the night before, made even tougher by a 35mph wind pushing us back.

We only saw 2 cars, 3 tractors and 2 other pilgrims in 3 hours on this road. Oh, and 3 green lizards about a foot long.








We arrive at our hostel (a bit shabby) but we don't care. I couldn't walk another metre, I am exhausted!

Our destination tomorrow is Mansilla de las Mulas. A 25km walk over much the same terrain.

Day 17 - Carrion de Los Condes to Moratinos

So we leave behind the amazing Monisterio (which I found out has EU funding for the church and remaining areas of the Monastery to be refurbished).

The meal in the restaurant was fabulous, Tony had Ox cheeks cos they run out of bulls noses.

Our Camino today is long straight and flat, to take us to Moratinos a bash of 33km.


Well, we are half way now to Santiago, 17 days done, 16 to go and just another 390km to go.















We have passed this couple on several occasions and seen them in the Hostels we have stayed in.

She is partially sighted and has difficulty in steadying herself, so her husband holds her hand ALL the way.

They started at St Jean and are going to Santiago.

Now that's what I call a true pilgrimage.




As I said, long, straight and flat.

You can see the snow capped mountains in the distance.

We are walking parallel to them thank goodness.

We pass through Terradillos de Templarios, a small scruffy town with not a lot else other than the church with the storks nest on the bell tower. The town was formerly a stronghold of the Knights Templar; nothing, on a physical level, remains of this noble order but the spirit lives on in the place name.

We arrive in Moratinos very tired and ready for a shower, meal and bed.

Our Hostel is new and run by a very nice German lady (well, they had to have one).

Our destination for tomorrow is El Burgo Ranero, 24km via rough dirt tracks across remote bush country. Should be more interesting than today.

Day 16 - Fromista to Carrion de Los Condes

We leave Fromista ready for a down pour but it didn't come.

Last night we found a really nice newly converted barn that had a bar and restaurant that just did salads and French bread meals, it was amazing, and dirt cheap. Bringing home a few recipes.

The Hostel as I said was little, Tony said he would probably sleep in the sink as it was bigger than his camp bed.

The Camino in front of us today follows a road and is predicted to be the most boring of all our walks.

We pass through Poblacion de Campos and this is just about all there is in this tiny village.

Interestingly they force the trees to grow like this and join then together to make a sun shaded walk when in full foliage.

Oh and him. No idea who he is though.

We stop for a drink in Villarmentero de Campos, a strange little road side bar that played English rock music.










We then found a detour route that ran along side the river, this was brilliant as it took us away from the boring road.

We stopped here and had our picnic and laid in the unexpected sun shine next to the river. Marvellous.

You can just see Tony playing with his blister plasters again.

We rejoined the road again for the next 6km into Carrion.













We can now see Carrion de Los Condes which occupied a strategic position in this volatile border area and at the height of its influence had a population of in excess of 10,000 now reduced to 2,300.

This interesting town retains its medieval atmosphere within its meandering side streets and was home to no less than 14 pilgrim hospitals.

We arrive at our stop for tonight. It's called “Real Monasterio de San Zoilo”

It's a converted monastery from 11th to the 16th Century connected with the Order of Cluny (which I think has something to do with the Benedictine monks, need to look that one up) and largely influenced by the Renaissance period including the splendid Plasteresque cloisters.

This is the view from my room widow, a monks dormitory.

The spender of the architecture can not be captured on film, it is quite unbelievable that these master pieces were constructed 900 years ago.

This is a second inner court yard that we found while wandering around the many corridors.

Like this corridor that encircled the cloisters of the court yard below.

This being that inner court yard (at dusk).

This is the now the Hotel entrance which the camera does not do justice.

Tomorrow we have a 30km hike to Terradillos and back to roughing it in a Hostal but with our batteries recharged.

They forecast rain tomorrow, nice.

Day 15 - Castrojeriz to Fromista

We leave Castrojeriz after a great evening. The food was not very up market though, salad, spaghetti and the standard hake. Oh well,  it's nutrition.

We went for a walk up the town and found a bar and the football was on, Bayern Munich - Dortmund. It was a tiny bar which was very quaint. Brilliant end to a perfect day.

We join the Camino in perfect conditions, sunny and cool. We will climb up and over the hill in the distance.

Then start a very steep incline to the top of the Meseta.

You can just make out the path we will take in the distance.










 

The climb to the top was tough and exhausting, but worth every step.









 

The views were stunning.

















Then start a very steep descent down to Ermitade San Nicolas.

Now there's a fine looking pilgrim.

We arrive at Ermitade San Nicolas, where we pass another 13th century pilgrim hospital now converted to an Albergue (pilgrim dormitory, no electricity or washing facilities).

Then on to Puente de Itero whose eleven arches carry us over the Rio Pisuerga and into the provincial de Palencia.

It's getting quite hot now but there is a welcome cool breeze at times.

Fields of extensive agricultural plenty served with rivers and canals that irrigate the rich soil.

There are few trees to offer shade, but we come across an oasis and stop for a snack.

On in to Itero de la Vega, where we find an Albergue that provides shade and serves a much needed salad lunch.

We then follow the Camino along side the canal.

We follow the canal for 4 km into Fromista.

The feet and legs are getting tired, but are helped on by the many new pilgrims we meet on the way.









We cross the canal via an ancient lock.

The canal was used to transport the cereal crops that were grown in the Meseta to the mills, the barges then would have been horse drawn, now the canal is only used for a very small amount of commercial trade and leisure.





We find our little basic hostel that Tony was delighted we were staying at so he could play on the slide.

I am sitting at the bar writing the blog and am joined by a harmless local drunk, who precedes to pour his heart out to me, I think. I can't understand a single word he says. Bless him.