Day 20 - Mansilla de las Mulas to Leon

We leave for Leon, our hostel last night was clean, tidy and modern but run by a really miserable old bag. It's amazing how the facilities and the attitude of the hostels differ. Some can't do enough to help, others, you feel as though you shouldn't be here. Maybe it's us two, more than likely.

We are now leaving behind a lot of the slow coaches (not that it's a race) and injured, and repeatedly meeting up with people we have previously met, walked with or dined with. Like Sheila, an American lady, she is walking with her two sons and meeting her third son and husband in Leon.. We met up in a bar with another pilgrim, Fia from Dublin, and had a great pilgrims meal all together.

Bon Camino guys.

We cross the river Rio Porma at Villarente. The first building we pass is a medieval pilgrim hospital which operated a donkey ambulance service for sick pilgrims to Leon.

The legs and feet are good today after a relatively moderate walk yesterday and an early night, and the weather is glorious.

A view back down the river. The remainder of our journey is along the road into Leon and not very exciting at all.

Oh my God, are we really staying here, Yep. It's the San Marcos Monastery in the deter of Leon, whose construction began in the 16th century, replaced another12th century monastery from the times of King Alfonso VI.

The past emerges in the cloister and Chapter house embracing the present with the excellent renovation of large rooms. In days gone by these sheltered the pilgrims.

The entrance lobby is breath taking with its original stone stairway and balustrade. The air is cool and fresh and the ambiance relaxing and peaceful after the walk along the busy dangerous road into the city.

The cloisters in the inner quadrangle are also original. It provokes thoughts of how a monastic life must of been like in the 16th century or what the exhausted pilgrims would have been welcomed by after 500km on the dusty hot Camino.

Another view of the cloister and the tranquil garden within.



















The city Leon derives it name from “ Legion”, at one time a Roman military garrison and base for its VIIth Legion, hence the name.

Later it became the capital of the old Kingdom of Asturias and Leon.

It was conquered and re-conquered by Visigoth, Morrs and finally by Christian forces.

Here there are many periods and styles from the Roman remains which support the medieval walls to the exquisite Romanesque Royal Basilica.

Ancient and modern now straddle the banks of the Rio Barnesaga and, within the hectic nature of a modern city, it is a meeting that seems somehow effortless and natural.



It is also the junction of the Camino from Madrid 320km away, thus making it a busy pilgrim meeting place in its own right.

This only leaves the Cathederal. Santa Maria de Leon Cathedral, also called “ The house of light ” or Pulchra Leonina.

It was built on the site of previous Roman baths of the 2nd century which, 800 years later, King Ordono II converted into a palace.




The Legio VII Gemina had built the baths, with a size larger than the current building. During the restoration in the 19th century it's remains were discovered, and in 1997 others were explored near the south facade.

During the Christian reconquest the ancient baths were converted into the royal palace. King OrdonoII II , who had occupied the throne of Leon in 916, defeated the Arabs in the battle of San Esteban de Gomaz in 917 and as a sign of gratitude to God he gave up the palace to build the first Cathedral. Under the episcopate of Fruminio II, the building was transformed into a sacred place. The tomb of OrdonoII II is found in the Cathedral.

The original wood carving in the Chorale is stunning.

We leave early tomorrow for a 23km flat walk to Villar de Mzarife which is another true pilgrim village to stay in the only hostel in the village.